Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling sec 2023

Le domaine allemand traditionnel de la famille Breuer compte parmi les meilleurs producteurs internationaux avec 5 étoiles des guides Eichelmann et Falstaff, ainsi que 4,5 étoiles Vinum et « 4,5 F » du guide Feinschmecker. Ce dernier en chante les louanges en ces termes : « les vins de Theresa Breuer séduisent avec leur élégance, leur subtilité et leur précision intemporelle ».

This giant of a dry riesling is anything but monumental in scale, much less overbearing. Instead it is a masterpiece of finesse and is old-fashioned in the best sense of that word on the precisely contoured, medium-bodied palate. Very long, super-elegant finish with a wealth of crushed rock minerality.

From the steep western part of the cru and near the Rhine River, the 2023 Berg Rottland opens clear and subtle on the nevertheless intense and elegant nose that reveals bright fruit aromas intertwined with smoky/flinty as well as lemon notes, weathered rocks, herbs and salts. Very elegant and balanced on the palate, this is a fine and playful, pure and frisky rather than rich and powerful Riesling. One might ask what would have happened if it had been picked earlier or, to me more fair, if the grapes had ripened more slowly. The finish is savory and grippy yet also still a little austere. Currently, it's a rather pure if not ascetic and proant Berg Rottland.